Before posting pictures from boatyard actions from Nazare (yes, Kiwi is on dry land in this biblical place since couple of hours), I just have to introduce the great new toy of hours: Zuma Jay 7.5 feet longboard bought second hand in Porto. The fascination of the process of learning wave surfing comes from it being eminently difficult, but at the same time very rewarding and addictive. The whole sport is ridiculous: the goal is to stand couple of seconds on the board and look cool. To be able to have a try, you need to fight your way out through breaking waves exploding on you and dragging you and the board back towards the shore. Being able to stand on the board on a wave requires vigorous paddling, balance, right timing, a lot of practice. Even the best performance ends in being tumbled around in the wave and swallowing liters of seawater. The few seconds of success you might have, are worth all the fight and misery! And the waves never end, there is always another shot!
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